Staying in Humahuaca for a few days proved to a real treat for me.I had been here before just on a day trip but one afternoon just dosen`t do this place justice.The morning after I arrived I decided to do a bit of touring around the local area and found myself a map to a few of the nieghbouring villages.This of course meant dirt roads and lots of climbing.After a change of tyres,back to those dreaded knobbies,I was off down the track past my hostel and it wasn`t long before the rocky road turned skyward.I was feeling a lot better that morning and was surprised at the fact the altitude didn`t seem to be affecting me at all.In fact the only time I really felt good was on the bike.Slowly but surely I made my way ever upward toward the town of Coctaca which was a village set amoungst an old Quechan archealogical dig.The looks that I was getting from the few people that I saw along the way told me that not too many gringo mountain bikers had come this way before.The landscape had gone from tall trees and fertile soil to sandy dry creeks surrounded by tall cactus to barren rocky expances dotted with low spikey shrubs.High above me on the top of the mountain range sat an obsevatory,it`s buildings shining brightly in the afternoon sun.I thought briefly about climbing the long winding switchbacks that led to the mountain-top from the next village up the valley.It was the rapidly setting sun that made my mind up for me and so I turned my bike around and started the long crazy downhill back into town.
My original plan of staying in Humahuaca for just two nights soon changed as I realised the great mountain bike opprotunities this town has on offer.So with my days spent riding the endless supply of mountain trails and the increasingly chilly nights spent hanging out with my fellow hostel inmates, my week in Humahuaca was fast becoming a highlight of my trip.The most surprising thing of all was that in this old,out the way town there was a very cool nightlife to be had once a little investigation was entered into.The town has two really cool little resto-bars(as they are known here).To find then in the dark maze of cobbled streets was quite the adventure as to me,one adobe building looks like every other adobe building in this place.Add to that the fact that there are no street signs and no indication that any bars exsist, until you are actually inside them, and it makes for quite an interesting game of hide and seek.Well worth the effort though, as once found, the two bars I`ve been to have had the nicest food and the coolest Argentinian folklorick bands playing amazing traditional music.In any major city in the world these places would be a yuppies paradise but here we just hung with the locals and soaked in the warm local atmosphere.
I did have one bit of exciting news though as someone told me that they had seen an poster in the main plaza advertizing a mountain bike race on the first of May.On investigation I found that every two years they have a 70k(44mile) race all around the area that I just happened to have ridden over during the previous few days.This would be too good to miss and so I set about making sure of the route and after scouting around figured I was in for a rough few hours of mountain bike madness.This ride was going to be tough but as it was long and the first 30k(18miles) extreamly hard I thought that it may actually suit the fact that I like long events over short all-out sprint affairs.I had never done a straight mountain bike race before and was looking forward to seeing who turned up as I`ve had nothing but a great time with every cyclist I`ve met in Argentina.
The morning of the race dawned very cold and grey.I put on just about every piece of cycle-clothing that I posessed and headed downtown for the anticipated 9am start.Not a cyclist to be seen,anywhere.Very strange I thought and checked the poster in the town square again.Yep,9am alright.Even had the right day.The only problem was there was nobody around at all!I resorted to riding loops of the city to keep warm and hoped I would get some idea of what was going on before too long.By 10 am there was still no sign of any cyclists and I figured I`d wait ten more mintutes and then call it a very cold day and go back to the warmth of my bed at the hostel.Just as I was preparing togo home I was a lady carrying a start flag and behind here was a guy with a bag full of the trophies that I`d seen in the store window in the plaza.I fugured that this was a typical expample of Argentinian organization and rode over to enquire as to what time the race would start.After the initial shock that a strange gringo was in town for the event they told me that it would strat at 10.30.No worries, only 20 minutes to wait.
Gradually more and more cyclists arrived and I figured we would get underway soon.I should know better by now and 40 minutes later the assembled group was still doing laps of the start straight just trying to stay warm.Seems they were waiting for a group from Bolivia to make its`way into town.At around 11.15 they called us to the start and short speeches were made to the peleton.Most of the guys were too busy looking at my bike to pay much attention but at least they got the most important piece of information of the day.Unbeknown to me they had decided to shorten the event from 70k(44miles) to about 35k(22miles),taking out the first 30 hard kilometers that I was looking forward to.I only realised the change when the gun went off and instead of heading up to the highway as planned the leaders turned off the asphalt straight away and crossed the river running through town.The road on the other side was one I`d ridden before and I knew there was only one direction that it went.Straight up!
Realising that I now had a short 35k on my hands I knew that the young guns would most likely sprint away from the start and sprint they did.As they led up the first 10k(6mile)climb I eased into a slow rythm, cursing the fact that I now had about 3 liters of fluid too much on my bike as well as way too much food in my camelback pockets.The climb to the first turn was negotiated without too much trouble and even though the leaders were well ahead of me I knew the rest were well within reach and I soon passed them all at the top of the course.A nice flat stretch allowed me to put some distance between myself and the group behind me as I prepared for the dramatic 3k descent down to the river,18k(11miles)from home.As soon as the fast, rocky descent started I figured something was wrong.My bike started to slide out all over the place and as soon as I hit any sandy patches I was losing control altogether.I was going too fast for my worn brakes to slow me down and it wasn`t until I was passed by a few guys that I figured my front tyre was going down.Sure enough,at the bottom of the descent my tyre was toast and I stopped at the first river crossing to change my tube.Normally this wouldn`t take too long but as I had learned with several flats over the previous few days I probrably had a thorn in my tyre and finding them isn`t easy.To avoid another slow leak on my fresh tube I had to find the thorn and eventually I did and squeezed it out of my tyre.With that done I tried my best to catch the group but I didn`t look to good for me an so firgured I didn`t have much hope of catching anyone now and slowed to enjoy the local scenery.
The last 15k(9miles)wound it`s way down a river valley occaisionally soaking me with several crossing and coating me with sand riding through many dry creek beds.It was a beautiful course and I was enjoying myself immensely.With about 5k(3miles)to go I came accross a guy pushing his bike.He wasn`t a competitor but obviously had a flat front tyre and so I stopped to help the poor guy out.He was amazed that I would stop in the middle of a race but I told him my race was done and that it wasn`t a problem.With his tyre fixed and him on his merry way I started to ride the last bit of the course and as luck would have it(bad luck that is)I got another flat.Typical!I rode the last couple of kilometers on a dead flat tyre and was joined by the race organizer who had ridden out to find me.We rode in together and I crossed the finish line to the cheers of the asembled cyclists and spectators.My position,well lets´ just say I strengthened my theory that nice guys do indeed finish last and with my second placing in the masters category,I have a trophy to prove it!
After the race we all went off to a local restaurant and ate all kind of dead animals,as they love to do so much here in Argentina.No salad, no post race carbs,just meat!A glass or two of red wine help wash it all down and after an hour with my cycling compadres it was back to the hostel to have a well deserved hot shower.The bad thing was I now had a rasping sound in my chest and I feared my flu was on it`s way back.To be honest I don`t think I ever got over it in the first place.It was time to rest and get rid of this thing in my chest.
With that in mind I decided to take up an offer from the guys at Gravity Assisted Tours in La Paz,Bolivia.It seems they have some space in a apartment they reserve for thier guides and have offered it to me.Thier hostel is very busy and if I want to spend some quality time training then the apartment would be more suitable.So it`s off to the bus terminal for me.I`ll bus it to the border and then catch the train from the border town of Villazon in Bolivia to Ororu and then connect with another bus into La Paz.The trip,apparently, is spactacular and I`m looking forward to being in Bolivia.It should take about two and a half days and then it`s a slight change of focus for me.While I will still be touring around from my base in La Paz I will now set my sights on preparing myself for my first triathlon of the year,the Double Ironman in Quebec,Canada on the 6th-7th of July.I hope to attract some sort of sponsor assistance to be able to compete in Ultraman Canada in August as well.I truly love that event but the cost is proving my only hurdle.I do want to go to Quebec for another reason as my sister lives in Montreal and it is always fun visiting her in that wonderful city.I plan to be in Penticton for Ultraman week regardless and should I be unable to compete,will be offering my services to the Ultraman crew to use me as they see fit.That should be fun.Maybe I could be the entertainment co-ordinator.
So there you have it.My time in Argentina is drawing to a close and I will miss this place very much.I have been amazed by everything I have seen and the people I have met in this wonderful country and have no doubt that a return trip is in my future.For now though, it`s Bolivia here I come!
My original plan of staying in Humahuaca for just two nights soon changed as I realised the great mountain bike opprotunities this town has on offer.So with my days spent riding the endless supply of mountain trails and the increasingly chilly nights spent hanging out with my fellow hostel inmates, my week in Humahuaca was fast becoming a highlight of my trip.The most surprising thing of all was that in this old,out the way town there was a very cool nightlife to be had once a little investigation was entered into.The town has two really cool little resto-bars(as they are known here).To find then in the dark maze of cobbled streets was quite the adventure as to me,one adobe building looks like every other adobe building in this place.Add to that the fact that there are no street signs and no indication that any bars exsist, until you are actually inside them, and it makes for quite an interesting game of hide and seek.Well worth the effort though, as once found, the two bars I`ve been to have had the nicest food and the coolest Argentinian folklorick bands playing amazing traditional music.In any major city in the world these places would be a yuppies paradise but here we just hung with the locals and soaked in the warm local atmosphere.
I did have one bit of exciting news though as someone told me that they had seen an poster in the main plaza advertizing a mountain bike race on the first of May.On investigation I found that every two years they have a 70k(44mile) race all around the area that I just happened to have ridden over during the previous few days.This would be too good to miss and so I set about making sure of the route and after scouting around figured I was in for a rough few hours of mountain bike madness.This ride was going to be tough but as it was long and the first 30k(18miles) extreamly hard I thought that it may actually suit the fact that I like long events over short all-out sprint affairs.I had never done a straight mountain bike race before and was looking forward to seeing who turned up as I`ve had nothing but a great time with every cyclist I`ve met in Argentina.
The morning of the race dawned very cold and grey.I put on just about every piece of cycle-clothing that I posessed and headed downtown for the anticipated 9am start.Not a cyclist to be seen,anywhere.Very strange I thought and checked the poster in the town square again.Yep,9am alright.Even had the right day.The only problem was there was nobody around at all!I resorted to riding loops of the city to keep warm and hoped I would get some idea of what was going on before too long.By 10 am there was still no sign of any cyclists and I figured I`d wait ten more mintutes and then call it a very cold day and go back to the warmth of my bed at the hostel.Just as I was preparing togo home I was a lady carrying a start flag and behind here was a guy with a bag full of the trophies that I`d seen in the store window in the plaza.I fugured that this was a typical expample of Argentinian organization and rode over to enquire as to what time the race would start.After the initial shock that a strange gringo was in town for the event they told me that it would strat at 10.30.No worries, only 20 minutes to wait.
Gradually more and more cyclists arrived and I figured we would get underway soon.I should know better by now and 40 minutes later the assembled group was still doing laps of the start straight just trying to stay warm.Seems they were waiting for a group from Bolivia to make its`way into town.At around 11.15 they called us to the start and short speeches were made to the peleton.Most of the guys were too busy looking at my bike to pay much attention but at least they got the most important piece of information of the day.Unbeknown to me they had decided to shorten the event from 70k(44miles) to about 35k(22miles),taking out the first 30 hard kilometers that I was looking forward to.I only realised the change when the gun went off and instead of heading up to the highway as planned the leaders turned off the asphalt straight away and crossed the river running through town.The road on the other side was one I`d ridden before and I knew there was only one direction that it went.Straight up!
Realising that I now had a short 35k on my hands I knew that the young guns would most likely sprint away from the start and sprint they did.As they led up the first 10k(6mile)climb I eased into a slow rythm, cursing the fact that I now had about 3 liters of fluid too much on my bike as well as way too much food in my camelback pockets.The climb to the first turn was negotiated without too much trouble and even though the leaders were well ahead of me I knew the rest were well within reach and I soon passed them all at the top of the course.A nice flat stretch allowed me to put some distance between myself and the group behind me as I prepared for the dramatic 3k descent down to the river,18k(11miles)from home.As soon as the fast, rocky descent started I figured something was wrong.My bike started to slide out all over the place and as soon as I hit any sandy patches I was losing control altogether.I was going too fast for my worn brakes to slow me down and it wasn`t until I was passed by a few guys that I figured my front tyre was going down.Sure enough,at the bottom of the descent my tyre was toast and I stopped at the first river crossing to change my tube.Normally this wouldn`t take too long but as I had learned with several flats over the previous few days I probrably had a thorn in my tyre and finding them isn`t easy.To avoid another slow leak on my fresh tube I had to find the thorn and eventually I did and squeezed it out of my tyre.With that done I tried my best to catch the group but I didn`t look to good for me an so firgured I didn`t have much hope of catching anyone now and slowed to enjoy the local scenery.
The last 15k(9miles)wound it`s way down a river valley occaisionally soaking me with several crossing and coating me with sand riding through many dry creek beds.It was a beautiful course and I was enjoying myself immensely.With about 5k(3miles)to go I came accross a guy pushing his bike.He wasn`t a competitor but obviously had a flat front tyre and so I stopped to help the poor guy out.He was amazed that I would stop in the middle of a race but I told him my race was done and that it wasn`t a problem.With his tyre fixed and him on his merry way I started to ride the last bit of the course and as luck would have it(bad luck that is)I got another flat.Typical!I rode the last couple of kilometers on a dead flat tyre and was joined by the race organizer who had ridden out to find me.We rode in together and I crossed the finish line to the cheers of the asembled cyclists and spectators.My position,well lets´ just say I strengthened my theory that nice guys do indeed finish last and with my second placing in the masters category,I have a trophy to prove it!
After the race we all went off to a local restaurant and ate all kind of dead animals,as they love to do so much here in Argentina.No salad, no post race carbs,just meat!A glass or two of red wine help wash it all down and after an hour with my cycling compadres it was back to the hostel to have a well deserved hot shower.The bad thing was I now had a rasping sound in my chest and I feared my flu was on it`s way back.To be honest I don`t think I ever got over it in the first place.It was time to rest and get rid of this thing in my chest.
With that in mind I decided to take up an offer from the guys at Gravity Assisted Tours in La Paz,Bolivia.It seems they have some space in a apartment they reserve for thier guides and have offered it to me.Thier hostel is very busy and if I want to spend some quality time training then the apartment would be more suitable.So it`s off to the bus terminal for me.I`ll bus it to the border and then catch the train from the border town of Villazon in Bolivia to Ororu and then connect with another bus into La Paz.The trip,apparently, is spactacular and I`m looking forward to being in Bolivia.It should take about two and a half days and then it`s a slight change of focus for me.While I will still be touring around from my base in La Paz I will now set my sights on preparing myself for my first triathlon of the year,the Double Ironman in Quebec,Canada on the 6th-7th of July.I hope to attract some sort of sponsor assistance to be able to compete in Ultraman Canada in August as well.I truly love that event but the cost is proving my only hurdle.I do want to go to Quebec for another reason as my sister lives in Montreal and it is always fun visiting her in that wonderful city.I plan to be in Penticton for Ultraman week regardless and should I be unable to compete,will be offering my services to the Ultraman crew to use me as they see fit.That should be fun.Maybe I could be the entertainment co-ordinator.
So there you have it.My time in Argentina is drawing to a close and I will miss this place very much.I have been amazed by everything I have seen and the people I have met in this wonderful country and have no doubt that a return trip is in my future.For now though, it`s Bolivia here I come!
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